Hamtramck grew dramatically in the early 1900's when the Dodge brothers built a new plant there. The plant initially produced machined products, forgings, and castings, all used in parts supplied to Ford. The Dodge brothers enlarged the plant significantly In 1914-1916 in order to produce their own automobile. They built the first Dodge in November 1914 and the new car was an instant success. Poles, already the largest ethnic group in Detroit, arrived in Hamtramck in droves to take advantage of the opportunity to work in the new plant. In 1922 Hamtramck became a municipality, electing a Pole as its first mayor.
Soon to be known as a vibrant center of Polish American life and culture, Hamtramck's Joseph Campau Historic District became the main shopping corridor. Unfortunately today there are shuttered storefronts, among thriving businesses. Some say this is due to one landlord who owns much of the property along this retail corridor and demands extremely high leasing rates.
With the 1978 election of Karol Wojtyla as the first Polish pope, the people of Hamtramck felt a special bond to the new pontiff. On Oct. 26, 1982, the city opened a park in his honor and named it Karol Wojtyla Hamtramck Park. The mural depicts aspects of Polish culture.
The 6,000-pound, 10-foot-tall bronze statue of Pope John Paul II stands high above what has fondly become known as "Pope Park."
That evening we enjoyed dinner at the Polish Village Cafe, known to have "the finest food west of Warsaw."
We
ventured out the next morning and decided to check out the Hamtramck Coney Island for breakfast. Yep, this cute, squeaky clean coney island
serves wonderful breakfast as well as lunch and dinner. I highly recommend the gyro omelette.
Inside
Coney Island, the current diversity of Hamtramck is evident. Over the
past thirty years, a large number of immigrants from the Middle East
(especially Yemen), South Asia (especially Bangladesh), and Southeastern
Europe (especially Bosnia and Herzegovina) have moved to the city. As
of the 2010 American Community Survey, the city's foreign born
population stood at 41.1%,[13] making it Michigan's most internationally
diverse city
Although we loved the food at Coney Island, we were still after a sip of strong coffee. Oloman Cafe hit the spot with pour-over decaf. While waiting, we checked out the amazing photography displayed on the wall.
The Polish heritage is still very evident in Hamtramck. New Palace Bakery was stocked for Easter with beautiful traditional Polish deserts.
Old Fashioned Mazurka and Mazurka Tortes are beautiful!
We just had to buy some goodies for Easter! We chose the old fashioned raisin cheesecake and raspberry Babka, which is much like a sponge cake. Delicious!
Neighborhood watering holes abound in the 2.09 square miles known as Hamtramck. Suzy's was dangerously close to our apartment.
The next morning, it was time to work off some food and beverages with a bike ride. As we headed from Hamtramck to Belle Isle along the Dequindre Cut Greenway, we came across this great oasis featuring some pretty familiar site furnishings, made in Kalamazoo!
All that bike riding makes one thirsty and hungry! Arclight brewery, headquartered in Watervliet, Michigan, has a Detroit location and boy were we happy about that! A cold beer and delicious pulled pork and tempeh sliders hit the spot.
About this time, I was thinking it was time to head back to Suzy's, but my companions had other plans. On to Belle Isle for a 3 mile ride around the perimeter of this lovely island nestled between Detroit and Windsor, Canada. We noticed many jersey barriers being fork lifted into place and realized this was the initial prep for the Detroit Grand Prix, scheduled for June 2-4.
Lake Michigan tempers the weather on the west side of Michigan which means it was more like spring on the east side of the state. We enjoyed the flowering trees and spring flowers, then wandered into the Anna Scripps Whitcomb Conservatory to give our bums a rest and observe some tropical plantings.
Finally turning our bikes toward "home," we wordlessly peddled for about 45 minutes arriving at Suzy's just in time for happy hour. A beer later, we were ready for some middle eastern food at The Yemen Cafe. Located in a strip mall on Joseph Campau, it was about a quick-paced 20 minute walk from Suzy's. The place was packed and the food delicious!
Tummies full, we drove our daughter and her bike back to her apartment and returned to ours, rented on VRBO, to chill and prepare for our drive home the next day.
We thoroughly enjoyed our trip. Time spent with our grown children is always fun and heart-warming. So great to see them find their own way and to be assured that they are pretty darn cool humans.
Next month, off to D.C. to visit our favorite son!
Till then, happy riding!
Miriam
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